Friday, November 20, 2009

Edible Alchemy: Whey to Sauerkraut


What to do with that jar of homemade whey that was left over from making the soft cream cheese?  How about using  it as an inoculant for making sauerkraut? Me thinks this is a mighty fine idea.

This way of making sauerkraut from the Nourishing Traditions cookbook feels really accessible to me and has lip-smacking-good results.  The scale and details surrounding making kraut in a large crock have always seemed a touch daunting.  This one-quart kraut recipe  was squeezed in during a rainy twenty minute afternoon interlude.


I used a medium sized organic cabbage and sliced it thinly.  As it turns out all the pounding I did later in the process really broke it up so don't worry too much about how you slice it.  I put in in a bowl with 
1 tablespoon of carraway seeds
1 tablespoon of sea salt
4 tablespoons of homemade whey
and used my handy dandy pounding implement to punch down the mixture for ten minutes to get all the juicy goodness out.  I used a 1-inch dowel that we had lying around from mulling mojitos.  

After ten minutes of pounding, the cabbage was really broken down and there was a lot of juice in the bowl.  I transfered it to a quart sized mason jar and seriously packed in the cabbage, pushing it down to make sure the cabbage was covered by liquid.  It is important to leave about an inch of space above the cabbage otherwise during fermentation pressure will build up and push out liquid...ooops, it happened to me! 

 I covered my jar tightly with a plastic lid and left it out in a warmish spot for three days. Then I sent it off to my stash in the basement, dark and cool for as long as I could stand it.  The longer it stays in storage the yummier (up to 6 months) but for our household it only made it one month before we just couldn't wait any longer.  It came out fantastic.  Super delicious and so cheap.  I still feel the whole whey fermentation thing is a little elusive in concept to me but  it worked and we can't get enough.  


p.s.  Recent discovery - sauerkraut added to a bowl of broth or soup....ziiiing!!

Wednesday, November 18, 2009

Edible Alchemy: Yogurt to Cheese

The cheese that I have been making from yogurt is more of a "gateway cheese".  I have this sneaky suspicion that this simple cheese will lead me down the slippery slope of rennet and who knows what after that.   When that time comes, I will venture forth with culinary boldness into the unknown, but in the meantime this is where it starts....

I use a couple layers of cheesecloth that can easily be washed and reused to separate my yogurt into whey and cheese.  My set-up is to lay the cheesecloth in a colander over a pot to passively drain my yogurt.  I've used my plain homemade yogurt but any organic yogurt will work. 

The whey is the liquid that drains out of the yogurt and is a valuable ingredient in lacto-fermentation.   I've used it to make super yummy sauerkraut - stay tuned for my next blog entry on that.  Sally Fallon's Nourishing Traditions has great info and recipes for using whey.  Its "whey" cool.  

I drain my yogurt in the colander for just a couple of hours at room temperature, resulting in a type of creme fraiche or sour cream that is delicious as a dollop in soup.  I have also left it longer and made a yogurt "hammock" by simply tying my cheesecloth to a pair of chopsticks and suspending my little pillow of yogurt in mid air.  This works great for a firm cream cheese. Make sure to save the whey, it should last in the fridge for a couple of months.  


Basically, how long to drain the milk solids is a matter of taste.  It depends on what I want to use it for - a dollop, dip, or spread.
  
I like to leave my sour cream unflavored and tangy but I've really fallen for a cream cheese mixed with the zest of one lemon and some coarse salt.  Its a "real punch" of flavor as my friend exclaimed. Definitely going to experiment with herbs, garlic, and olives.  I imagine once I have worked my way through the savory pantry I will move on to sweetly flavored cream cheeses.  Is it berry season yet?


Wednesday, November 11, 2009

Edible Alchemy: Milk to Yogurt

I have noticed recently that the food we have been savoring at home has evolved.  A summer spent canning and preserving, started a rhythm of preparing and appreciating food from its most basic raw materials.  I am learning the difference between food that takes time and food that takes planning.   Fermenting results in some of my most favorite things to eat, and I know now that for most of these foods it takes me 5 minutes of active work and sometimes 12 hours or a week of waiting.  That seems really manageable to me on a busy schedule and (as a person who likes to receive birthday presents early so I can enjoy the anticipation of NOT opening them) this fermenting business gets me really excited.

I have had the time to experiment and to learn from Tressa Yellig, the amazing creator of  Salt, Fire and Time.  Tressa follows a style of cooking promoted by the Weston A. Price foundation and made accessible by the Nourishing Traditions cookbook.  It focusses on nutrient dense foods, rich with healthy animal fats and made digestible through fermentation.  I have been inspired by her boldness and her integrity as a person and a chef.

And so when a quart of farm fresh organic milk recently made its way into my hands I decided to venture forth into a world of edible alchemy.   It is not in my personality to understand the physics or chemistry behind these simple creations, instead I accept it as magic.....delicious, accessible magic.

Milk = Yogurt
Yogurt = Cream Cheese and Whey
Whey = Sauerkraut

What a tidy little sequence of events, wouldn't you say?  I could go to the store and buy each of these items quite easily, but I get such pleasure from having the building blocks at my fingertips.  I know that I save money, avoid packaging, and have complete control over what goes into my food.  And like I said...its magic and its a hoot.

Here's the first round.  I got this yogurt  recipe from Sandor Ellix Katz's Wild Fermentation book, an incredible and informative read.


Heat a quart of organic milk in a heavy bottomed pot until the temperature reaches 180 degrees, stirring gently the whole time.  If you don't have a thermometer look for the small bubbles starting to foam around the edges.  


Turn the heat off and allow to cool till you can put your finger in the milk without flinching. (110 degrees).  

At this point add only a tablespoon of organic yogurt that has live cultures.  This will be your starter culture but next time you make yogurt you can use a tablespoon from the previous batch.  Mix the starter in until its  dissolved in the milk.   Pour into a pre-heated quart jar and close tightly.

In the meantime you need to devise a way to tuck your  jar of yogurt-to-be into a warm and cozy spot for the night.  You could wrap the warm jar in towels and set the bundle in a toasty spot, but my favorite method is to fill a couple hot water bottles and snug them into a small insulated cooler.














Close the lid and surpress any desire you might have to peek and wiggle your jar of yogurt.  It likes to rest in its cozy nest for 8-12 hours.  

Our house runs cold this time of year and I often struggle with finding a consistently warm spot for my ferments and for my toes.  I have to say the hot water bottles given to me by my British nana are well cuddled around here.  In fact, for full disclosure, after I wrote that last sentence I got so inspired that I went and put the kettle on to fill up my hot water bottle for a bit of blogging warmth.



















Soon enough, out comes yummy warm yogurt, sometimes with a thick layer of cream on top.  You know the rest.....